Choose A Suitable Species

When you plant a tree it’s very important to choose a species that is ideal for your area’s hardiness zone. The U.S. is broken up into 12 zones based on climate. These zones categorize the areas where specific tree species are capable of living. The Portland metro area is in zone 8a and 8b, meaning any tree you plant should be capable of surviving temperatures as low as 10-20 degrees Fahrenheit.

If you are planting a street tree within the City of Portland you are required to have a permit and choose a tree from a list of approved species. Curious about whether you need a permit? Read our earlier blog post.

Location, Location, Location

The planting site is very important to the future of your tree. Before you start digging a hole, analyze your proposed location. It should have adequate sunlight and drainage, and enough space to accommodate the tree once it’s reached maturity. The area should be free of power lines and other obstructions.

Digging The Hole

Most landscape trees come in a container or wrap just big enough to fit the root ball. The hole you dig needs to easily accommodate the size of the root ball, and ideally be twice as wide. When in doubt, make the hole wider rather than shaving the root ball to fit your hole.

While your tree is still in its container, take note of the soil surface relative to the base of the tree trunk. Dig your hole deep enough so that this surface is completely level with the ground surrounding the hole. The root ball should not stick out above or sit below this elevation when you place it in the hole.

Backfill

Use the soil you excavated from the hole to backfill around the tree. If your soil isn’t ideal you can mix in some compost to lighten the soil, which will help the tree root out more quickly. Replace the dirt around the root ball layer by layer, a few inches at a time. Pack down each layer with a shovel or your boot to eliminate air pockets.

Make a Well

To make sure there’s plenty of water delivered to the roots and soil, create a well around the base of your tree.  At the edge of the hole where the ground is undisturbed, build a berm around six inches tall and wide. Pack it tightly with your hands so there are no loose spots where water can break through when you irrigate the tree.

Just Add Water, Lots of Water

Watering your tree after planting is critical to its survival. Use a hose to fill the well you made with water. After the water is absorbed, fill the well again for good measure. If it gets particularly hot or windy after planting, repeat this step daily or every other day so the roots get plenty of moisture. Thorough saturation ensures that any air pockets in the soil collapse before they cause root hairs to die.

If you need advice about what species of tree to choose or where to plant, contact us. We’re happy to help.

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Sometimes trees can become a hazard when they are damaged, or weakened by disease or insects. The danger increases with the size of the tree. Take douglas firs for example, which can grow to be 10 feet in diameter and more than 200 feet tall. Imagine a tree of that size falling suddenly in your neighborhood. Scary, right? So, keep an eye out for the following signs of danger in the trees on your property.

Dead or Broken Branches

If you have a tree with a branch that is broken or breaking, it could fall and injure someone or damage your property. Loggers call these dangerous branches ‘widow makers’ for a reason. Sometimes branches can be broken but still firmly attached, and pose no immediate threat of falling. These ones can be pruned after any other hazardous branches are removed. When a partially attached branch is pulled away, it can take some extra bark along with it. If a branch, or even the trunk, loses more than a third of its circumference of bark, it should be removed as well.

Cavities in the Trunk or Branches

A neglected bark injury can sometimes turn into a cavity, or hollow, in a tree. Cavities are basically the result of any physiological stress, such as fire, storms, fungus, improper pruning and other factors, that expose the tree’s heartwood. When the heartwood is exposed it is much more vulnerable to fungal infections, which initiate the decay process. Squirrels, birds and raccoons and other animals love to make decaying trees their homes, and the hollow makes a great front door. Carpenter ants will also attack a decaying tree via the cavity and dig tunnels all throughout the trunk. While the ants do leave behind a wood preserving enzyme, the tunnels they dig also collect water, speeding up the tree’s rotting process. When the rot and decay consume enough of the tree, it becomes weakened and can fall in high winds.

Rot and Fungus

Conifers, especially Douglas firs (Oregon’s state tree), are very common throughout the Northwest. These tree species are also particularly prone to fungus and rot. Root diseases, also called root and butt rots, can spread for decades if left to persist and eventually cause a tree to fall. Five of the most havoc-wreaking root diseases are laminated root rot (the most dangerous in regards to tree death), Armillaria root disease, annosus root disease, black stain root disease and tomentosus root rot. Some of the usual symptoms of such infections include:

• Mushrooms or ‘conks’ that grow on the roots or on the root collar

• Basal resin (sap) flow and stained bark

• Presence of bark beetles

• Fading foliage, dying branches, premature shedding of older needles and irregular shoot growth throughout the tree’s crown

• Cone crops showing signs of distress

Root diseases are not a death sentence, however. We were recently called out to remove a large, hazardous Douglas Fir tree displaying conks within a group of infected firs. Only one tree required removal, while four others will survive.

Cracks in the Trunk or Branches

Cracks can form from frost, frequent high winds (especially when preceded by rot), lightning strikes, and substantial decay. This kind of structural defect in the trunk, or main stem of the tree, can cause the tree or parts of it to fail. Sometimes cracks caused by frost can heal, but in general a crack is a sign of decay, and the larger the crack the more likely it is that the tree will die. Trunks that are completely split down the middle are very dangerous and difficult to brace adequately. Trees with such a severe defect should be addressed and/or removed by a professional tree-care service or arborist.

Trees That Are Leaning or Have Sprung Roots

High winds can sometimes tip a tree over and rip up some of the roots. These trees don’t usually survive very long. Sprung roots and a lean are often signs that the tree was previously compromised by poorly developed roots, damage or decay. When the roots are pulled out of the ground, whatever defect that existed before becomes exacerbated, often resulting in failure. In fact, any tree that leans should be inspected for root diseases. Sometimes a leaning tree can be pulled back into place and allowed to survive, however this is usually not successful with older trees. If a smaller or recently planted tree is gently pulled back to its vertical position, it should have a chance to live as long as the soil is firmly packed around it and thoroughly watered. Until the roots are established, the tree will need to be staked for stability.

If you have a tree with one or more of these types of hazards, contact Inexpensive Tree Care right away. We will be glad to inspect your tree and help you through the removal process if necessary.

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In 1906, an official of the U.S. Department of Agriculture by the name of Dr. David Fairchild imported 100 cherry trees from a nursery in Japan to plant on his property in Maryland and test their hardiness. Pleased with the trees’ success, Fairchild began to promote the idea of planting the trees along streets around Washington.

In attendance of Fairchild’s Arbor Day lecture in 1908 was Mrs. Eliza Scidmore, who had been lobbying to plant cherry trees along the reclaimed Potomac waterfront for 20 years to no avail. The next year, Scidmore wrote a letter to the First Lady, Helen Taft, outlining her plan to buy the trees she wanted and donate them to the city. Delighted by the idea, Mrs. Taft put the plan into motion herself. A Japanese Chemist in Washington at the time heard of this and generously donated 2,000 trees to fill out the area along the Potomac river bank in the name of Tokyo.

Unfortunately, when the trees arrived in D.C. in January of 1910 they were discovered to be infested with insects and disease and were burned to protect American growers. The American government sent the Japanese an apologetic letter, and they replied with another shipment of 3,020 cherry trees comprised of twelve different varieties.

On March 27th, 1912, Helen Taft and the Viscountess Chinda, wife of the Japanese Ambassador planted two of the cherry trees on the bank of the Tidal Basin (just south of what is currently Independence Ave.), and the first lady offered the Viscountess a bouquet of roses. Washington D.C.’s National Cherry Blossom Festival grew from this small ceremony, witnessed by only a few people. For the next several years, workers continued planting cherry trees around the Tidal Basin. The two original trees still stand near the John Paul Jones Memorial.

Throughout the following decades, even during WWII, the National Cherry Blossom Festival became more and more prominent and grew into an annual event.

In 1965, Japan donated another 3,800 cherry trees to another first lady devoted to beautifying Washington, Lady Bird Johnson. She and Mrs. Ryuji Takeuchi, wife of Japan’s Ambassador re-enacted the 1912 planting ceremony.

In 2011, around 120 specimens from the surviving 1912 trees around the Tidal Basin were collected and sent back to Tokyo to retain the genetic lineage. Several other such exchanges and gifts over the past 50 years have benefited both cities. Through this tradition of giving, the cherry trees have been realized as a symbol and agent of friendship.

Last year, D.C.’s festival extended from 16 days to five weeks in a grand tribute to the 100-year anniversary of the original gift of trees. This year, more than 1.5 million people will visit Washington, DC to admire the cherry blossoms and participate in the cultural programming that celebrates the beginning of spring.

Here in Portland we have our own festival called Sakura Sunday presented by the Japan-America Society of Oregon. The 3rd annual festival will take place on the afternoon of April 7. You can join in celebrating the blossoming cherry trees along Portland’s waterfront, and the friendship between the United States and Japan, with a picnic in the park. For more info, visit their Facebook event page.

If you are lucky enough to have a Japanese cherry tree on your property and you’d like some help to keep it healthy and beautiful, contact Inexpensive Tree Care today.

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The purpose of tree roots is to:

• Uptake water, oxygen, and minerals
• Transport water and minerals toward the inner trunk
• Support the tree structurally
• Promote growth

Absorption

Large trees have over 30 miles of roots, with 5-million root tips, including many small colonies of beneficial fungus. The work of the root system is fueled by sugar from the leaves, using oxygen found between soil particles. One-celled projections, or root hairs, do the work of absorbing water and minerals from the soil. Beneficial fungae, called mycorrhizae, live on feeder roots and also contribute to the collection process.

Once the water and minerals have been collected, they transfer into the thin conducting roots, which run alongside the absorbing roots and carry water and minerals back toward the trunk of the tree.

Outgrowth

The length and depth of root growth depends on the amount of space given the plant. Conducting roots may extend outward as far as 2 or more times the height of the tree without barriers and disturbances.

Conducting roots then converge into brace roots, which are thick and grow laterally, providing much of the necessary support for the tree. Roots continue to extend as-needed, growing in an ever-widening disk around the tree.

Root Limitations

While roots actively search for oxygen, there is very little available below 18” in clay soil. In sandy soil there may be more oxygen at deeper levels, but water and minerals at those depths will be limited. A high water table will further limit oxygen penetration, and bedrock may prevent roots from digging deeper to continue their search.

What You Can Do

Because it is difficult to treat unhealthy roots, your tree care best practices for a vigorous root system include:

• Adequate growing space: Make sure that your roots have room to grow. This includes well-conditioned soil of between 16 to 24 inches deep, with sufficient water and oxygen. To keep your tree well-hydrated, give the entire root system a long, deep watering. Leave time in between waterings for the soil to dry out.
• Avoid injuries to the roots: Injuries may include soil compaction, soil depth changes, mechanical injury, and improper watering and fertilization techniques. Minimizing soil compaction includes removing compacted soil and replacing it with non-compacted soil, making space for adequate drainage before planting. Fertilization damage can be avoided by applying nitrogen fertilizer to established trees after spring leaf expansion.

Understanding the best way to care for your tree means caring for your tree’s root system. By following the tips above, you will be able to adequately meet the needs of your tree’s nutrient-seeking roots and provide care that ensures a long and healthy life for your tree and garden ecosystem.

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Elm trees have provided man with an extensive list of uses for thousands of years. Today, elms are valued for their beauty and functionality, as well as for cultural and historical reasons. The trees have a dense canopy but lack low-hanging branches, making them favorable shade trees. They can endure all kinds of mistreatment like over pruning, root damage and exposure to deicing salts. Elms can also survive high winds and flooding, making this a favorite tree for planting in parks and along city streets in urban areas. The wood of elm trees has also been used for numerous purposes throughout history, from wheelwrighting and boat construction to medicine and food.

Dutch elm disease has become one of the most destructive plant diseases in history. It has killed millions of trees throughout Europe and North America, causing billions of dollars of losses and damaging the beauty of urban landscapes. Because elm species native to China are resistant to DED, it is a popular theory that the disease originated in Asia. However, DED was first identified in 1922 in the Netherlands where thousands of elms were dying, and given its name in honor of the dutch scientists who isolated the fungus. The disease appeared in America for the first time in Ohio in 1930, having reached the U.S. via infected shipping crates. DED spread rampantly through the east coast, and by 1972 the European bark beetle, the primary transmitter of the fungus, was found in all but four states.

Portland’s first case of DED was found in 1977 in Overlook Park, and the second in 1986 on 39th & E. Burnside Street. With around 3,500 elms throughout Portland, the disease would have a devastating impact on the city’s urban forest if allowed to persist. Portland’s Urban Forestry division has worked to stop the spread of the harmful fungus by establishing a quarantine effective in 12 of Oregon’s counties. All states in the U.S. except Alaska, Arizona, Florida, Hawaii, Louisiana, New Mexico and Utah are also under quarantine. This prohibits any part of the elm species – or even equipment used to prune or dispose of any elm tree – from entering the state of Oregon from other quarantined areas.

Elms are most susceptible to DED in the spring and summer months, so the city of Portland has also banned the pruning of elm trees between April 15th and October 15 to prevent resulting open wounds on the tree from further attracting beetles. Each summer when the symptoms of DED are most apparent, the Urban Forestry Division monitors Portland’s elm tree population. When an infected elm is found they must act fast to remove it and prevent the disease from spreading. The tree is carefully removed, the stump is ground, and the wood is chipped and buried to keep from attracting beetles.

Urban Forestry also protects the city’s elms by applying a fungicide to approximately 450 elms on a 3-year rotation, targeting significant elms in our parks and public spaces. The nonprofit organization Save Our Elms also puts together neighborhood inoculations, applying fungicide to about 300 elms each year.

If you spot an elm tree displaying signs of Dutch Elm Disease, please call Urban Forestry at (503) 823-4489 or email trees@portlandoregon.gov

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Portland, specifically, is home to many trees that are rare and historical. We hold immense value in these trees and protect them vigilantly. In May of 1993, the City of Portland enacted an ordinance that identifies and protects particularly significant trees in the area. These trees are of special importance to the city because of their age, size, type, historical association or horticultural value. The Heritage Tree ordinance holds a list of 114 species and 311 trees. Listed below are the first five to become Heritage Trees and are also considered historical landmarks.

1. American Elm (Ulmus Americana). This deciduous tree is more commonly found east of the rocky mountains and thrives in floodplains and swampy grounds. The American elm is a particularly hardy tree, withstanding winter temperatures as low as −44 °F. As longs as these trees remain unaffected by Dutch elm disease, they can live for several hundred years. This specific American Elm was planted in 1870. It is 78 feet tall and its canopy spreads 105 feet wide. Location: 1111 SW 10th Ave.

2. London Planetree (Platanus x acerifolia).  This deciduous tree is generally considered to be a hybrid of the oriental plane and the American sycamore. It’s first occurrence was recorded in Spain in the 17th century where an oriental planetree and an American sycamore grew near one another. It’s leaves are maple-like and it bares little seed balls covered in stiff, thorny hairs that help disperse the wind. This London Planetree was planted next to the Sylvester Farrell house in 1880. It is 65 feet tall and its canopy spans 95 feet. Location: The Northwest corner of SW Park and SW Main Street.

• Coincidentally, we were recently hired as certified arborists by the City of Portland to trim this tree. A low hanging branch was encroaching into traffic and being caught by trucks, which would undoubtedly cause it to break eventually. In collaboration with the city arborist, we were able to perform minimal trimmings (which is crucial to trees of this age) and removed the branch while preserving as much of the canopy as possible.

3. Tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera). This is a characteristically large deciduous tree of the magnolia family. It is more frequent in the Eastern U.S. and commonly grows to 165 feet in height. There have been unconfirmed reports of tulip trees reaching 200 feet. They are known for their large yellow flowers resembling tulips, although they are not related. This tulip tree was planted in the 1890s. It is 72 feet tall and its canopy is 65 feet wide. Location: 1403 NE Weidler St.

4. Oregon white oak (Quercus garryana). This deciduous tree, commonly called the Garry Oak, is the only oak tree native to Oregon. It grows west of the Cascade Mountains, in the Willamette, Umpqua and Rogue River Valleys, and along the Columbia River Gorge. The Oregon white oak is often found hosting growths called galls that are created by wasps. This Garry Oak is privately owned, 40 feet tall and twice as wide. Location: 2137 SE 32nd Place.

5. Austrian pine (Pinus nigra). This is a large coniferous evergreen tree, that can grow up to 180 feet tall at maturity. It is more commonly found in the mediterranean region. Its needles are thin and flexible and it produces cones that appear in the spring and release seed in the winter. The Austrian pine can be very long-lived, with some trees living for over 500 years. It is believed that this Austrian pine was planted in the late 1800s by one of Portland’s first florists, Henry Miller. It is 107 feet tall and spans 55 feet in width. Location: Corner of Jefferson and SW 20th Ave.

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Fungicides are regularly used to control tree diseases. They can be sprayed, injected into the tree trunk, or even injected into the soil surrounding the roots. In some cases, tree pruning, fertilizing, or changing watering habits, is all that is necessary to reduce disease infection..

If you are thinking about attempting to control a disease that is infecting your trees, please contact us. We can identify the disease and give you advice about treatments that are available to control the disease and the proper time to apply them. To help you identify what is infecting your trees, we have listed four common tree diseases and the symptoms to watch for.

Anthracnose

Anthracnose infections in trees are common throughout the Eastern United States. Many shade and ornamental trees are susceptible to the anthracnose disease including ash, basswood, birch, catalpa, dogwood, hickory, horsechestnut, tuliptree and black walnut. The infection can be particularly severe on American sycamore and several trees in the white oak group. Anthracnose is a host-specific disease, meaning the species of fungi that attacks your ash tree will not also attack your birch or sycamore tree. Therefore there are numerous recognized species of the fungi.

The most common symptom of anthracnose is dead spots or blotches on the tree’s leaves. The spots or blotches may be black, brown, or purple and are often found along the veins of the leaves. Infected leaves frequently become distorted or oddly shaped due to the irregular growth between the healthy and infected portions of the leaf.

Dothistroma Needle Blight of Pines

Dothistroma needle blight is a fungal infection that causes premature defoliation in mature trees and severe stunting and death in young trees. It has been detected in more than 35 pine species throughout North America. In Washington, Oregon and California, dothistroma infects plantings of lodgepole and Monterey pines.

Early symptoms of dothistroma include darker-green bands and yellow and tan spots on needles. The dark green bands do not last long and will be missed if not observed at the onset of the infection. Over time, the spots and bands turn brown or reddish brown. Along the West Coast and into Idaho, dothistroma is often referred to as the “red band disease” because the bands on the needles are more red and numerous than they are in other regions. A dothistroma needle blight Infection is typically most severe in the lower crown of the tree.

Armillaria Root Rot

Armillaria root rot attacks trees and kills shrubs, vines, and forbs in every state. Hundreds of plants are susceptible to this disease to a certain degree. In fact, there are only two kinds of trees that are resistant to armillaria root rot: larch trees and birch trees. The fungi infect healthy trees, either killing them directly, or weakening them and making them more vulnerable to infestations by pests or other fungi.

This type of fungus lives as a parasite on large roots and stem pieces of conifers and broad-leaved trees, and may survive there for years causing death, decay and growth reduction. It is also one of the most common fungi in forest soil. Serious losses have occurred in orchards and vineyards planted in recently cleared forest lands or plantations.

All infected hosts show symptoms common to armillaria. One of the most noticeable indicators of an Armillaria infection are the clusters of mushrooms will also form at the base of the infected tree. Other symptoms include the appearance of lighter, bleached wood, yellowing foliage, and dieback of twigs and branches. The trunks of coniferous trees will excrete excess resin, which will result in a layer of resin, debris, and fungal tissue covering the infected roots. Deciduous trees can sometimes develop sunken cankers on the trunk. Removing the bark will expose the branching, vegetative part of the fungus.

Aspen Canker

Quaking aspen trees are one of the most well-known and widespread species of tree in the Western United States. The majority of damage to aspen are caused by wound-invading fungi. One of these fungi is called sooty-bark canker, which is the most lethal aspen canker in the West. Sooty-bark canker is considered to be the most serious canker because it occurs on the larger trees on all sites. It is most often found on mature trees of 120 years or more, but can kill all sizes of aspen trees, usually within 3 to 10 years.

The fungus attacks trees through their wounds and invades the inner bark, developing rapidly. Sooty-bark canker can extend as much as three feet in length and one foot in width in only a year. The cankers will initially appear on the bark as a sunken oval-shaped area. The fungus kills portions of bark each year. After two or three years, the dead bark will begin to slough off and expose the blackened, sooty inner bark that gave this canker its name.

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Portland tree permitting rules are complex, and tree care companies are generally not allowed to apply for the permit on the property owner’s behalf. Failing to get the proper permit could cost you a fine of up to $20,000. Give us a call and we can help sort out whether or not you need permission from the city to have tree work done.

A permit is required before performing any pruning on public or street trees. Permits for pruning public trees can be obtained online if the street tree is abutting residential property; you will be pruning branches less than 6″ in diameter; you will be performing young tree pruning, crown cleaning or crown raising for the purpose of clearing the street or sidewalk; and if the street tree is not a Heritage Tree. Other types of pruning may be permitted for public trees, but require a tree inspection.

Urban Forestry will consider your request to remove a street tree and suggest alternatives to tree removal unless no viable alternative exists. Removal will only be approved if the tree is dead, dying or dangerous. If your tree is merely dropping leaves for fruit, seems too tall, is making too much shade or is costing you too much to maintain, a permit will likely not be granted. If a removal permit is granted, it will require that a 2″ caliper tree be replanted.

For the removal of trees growing in yards, not in the public right-of-way, you must still adhere to certain regulations. On particular private properties, it’s prohibited to cut trees larger than 12” in diameter. Also, if your property is located in an environmental zone, if existing trees are protected through land use rules, or if your property is dividable, you may need a permit.

If you are planning on planting a tree (recommended in the cool, wet months) in the public right-of-way, you will need to obtain a planting permit, which are free and include an on-site inspection. To guarantee that the tree provides the most benefit and needs little maintenance as it grows, an inspector will help you choose suitable tree varieties, determine the appropriate planting location, and locate utilities.

For more information, visit PortlandOregon.gov, or call Portland Parks & Recreation’s Urban Forestry at 503-823-4489.

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There are many reasons homeowners need to keep their trees trimmed. How and when they are pruned depends on what type of tree you are dealing with. Regardless, here are some of the benefits to proper tree pruning:

• Removing diseased branches improves a tree’s health
• Removing large dead, weak, or broken branches reduces safety risks
• Storm damage can be minimized by removing excess interior branches
• You create a more aesthetically pleasing landscape when trees are well kept
• Pruning fruit trees will help increase their lifespan and the amount of fruit they yield
• If you live close to a road with street signs, making sure a tree doesn’t hinder view of the sign is important for road safety

The frequency with which you have to trim your trees depends on what kind of tree you have. Some trees may rarely require tree pruning, while others will need attention more often. Once you decide that you have a tree that needs to be pruned, you must decide whether you should do it yourself, or if it’s better to hire a tree care professional.

Proper and diligent tree pruning will help manage growth, create a more visually appealing property, and encourage healthier trees. Whether you’re uncertain about your needs or there are safety concerns with the job, you can always call us for a free estimate.

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1. Assess the damage. Trees with major damage are easy to spot. Fallen trees are easiest to identify. However, standing trees with other types of damage require careful inspection at a safe distance. Consider to be hazardous any tree that has both injury and an immediate target, such as part of your home, people, other buildings, or cars.

2. Seek professional help. When deciding which trees to remove, be sure to consult your local tree care specialists. Especially in the case of old or beloved trees, the decision to remove can be difficult. However, consider the following:

• If a large branch has been pulled out or split out of the tree, that branch should be removed.
• If more than 50 percent of the living branches in the crown of your tree have been broken or are missing, the tree should be removed.
• Leaning trees with evidence of recent root lifting, breakage or soil movement should be removed.
• Large cracks in trees, especially those affecting 50 percent or more of the main stem, indicate a tree that should be removed. Even trees with less damage that have preexisting decay or defects can pose future hazards. However, consult a tree care professional before making your final decision.

3. Don’t try to save or repair a partially dislodged branch or the fork of a tree that has split. However, this tree injury is not likely to heal and any attachment will be weak, particularly if decay sets in. In addition, you risk your personal safety and that of others by attempting tree repair on your own. Cabling or bracing, while usually not recommended, may be an option. However, this process should only be performed by a professional arborist on very valuable trees, and will require annual inspection.

4. Don’t panic and attempt to remove all of your living trees. The alternate side of trying to repair damaged trees yourself is seeing every tree as a threat. The value of trees to your property and home include aesthetic and environmental factors. Wait for a professional crew can come and assess potential damage.

5. Don’t be swayed by quick and cheap options. Your neighbor may offer to use his chainsaw to remove your hazardous limbs cheaply, but he may not have the tree care knowledge necessary to remove the dead limbs efficiently and with minimal damage to the tree and your yard. Wait for the professionals to arrive.

Storms can wreak havoc on even the strongest trees. With the tips above, you can process tree damage and manage cleanup safely, knowing that you did the right thing for your family and your trees.

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